“Trekking is a must in Sapa,” says an English tourist as we arrive in the mountain retreat. “Why else would you come here?” The gateway to mountainous north of Vietnam, Sapa is always a welcome retreat for travelers fleeing the heat and humidity of Hanoi. This is also the perfect time of year to trek around Sapa as the rice on the famously picturesque terraced fields is ripening. Most tourists decamp in Sapa and organize a Sapa tour through their hotel. There is no shortage of willing guides as teenage members of the local hill tribes traipse the streets looking for tourists to either flog hand-woven ethnic grab or invite to their village for a home-stay.
 

Foreign visitor and the local hill tribes in Sapa street

Alternatively, you can be a little more adventurous and do it yourself – just hire a motorbike, get a map or some decent directions and take off into the Great Outdoors. This is the option that I have settled on. It’s only a short drive from Sapa to the Black H’mong village of Lao Chai, while during the harvest season the best spot is arguably Muong Hoa Valley, a pleasant downhill ride from my hotel (you can also cycle or organize motorbike taxis). Here the trek can then begin. The sooner you set off on foot, the sooner you’ll be experiencing the true joy and beauty of Muong Hoa Valley. I find myself carefully negotiating the zigzagging path downhill, which is rather slippery as it rained overnight (good walking boots are strongly recommended). However, before long I’m standing in the middle of golden paddies. All the terrace fields, hills and mountains around are yellow and the air is filled with the sweet smell of ripened rice. It’s an amazing sight.
 

I walk past some H’mong farmers harvesting and threshing rice among the fields. The hill tribes here still do things the old fashioned way. The grains are separated from the harvested stalks by whacking a handful of shoots with a wooden threshing instrument, while the loose grains are collected on a mat for collection. A Black H’mong woman offers to show me how to cut the rice and let me assure you, it’s not easy! Eventually, I cut off a bundle and have a go at threshing the rice but again, this looks easier when the locals are doing it. I try my best, but soon make my excuses and head on. The trail continues to Lao Chai village. The village is rather quiet as most of the inhabitants are busy in the fields. In the absence of their masters, dogs and pigs loll around happily while buffaloes rumble around in gardens.

After another 7km, I arrive at the Giay tribal village of Ta Van, where you can enjoy home-stay accommodation and visit the private museum of Mr. Ha Meo, who owns a cluster of traditional stilt houses, just over a charming rattan bridge which crosses Muong Hoa Springs. The ground floor is used for displaying tribal farming tools, weaving looms, embroidery, brocades and farming products, and houses a kitchen and restaurant as well.

Ha is a lovely host, hospitable and enthusiastic. He happily introduces specialties and explains the local cultures around the valley. It’s not an overstatement to say that he is a walking encyclopaedia of the area and a night sitting by the fireside

listening to his stories is unforgettable. Honestly, I’d rather stay here than any well-equipped hotel in town.



I must also mention the food – after a Sapa trekking trip and some hapless attempts at farming. I did work up an appetite and Ha's home-stay experience includes a meal with charcoal grilled dishes – pork sticks, chicken, fish, vegetables and steamed sticky rice. Of course, when you’re in the north of Vietnam there’s always a tipple served with your dinner, but thankfully, nothing too strong. Ha pours us a glass of the very palatable Tao Meo liquor, which is sweet and easy to drink (but careful, it’s strong!). I only need two sips before my weariness overwhelms me, and so I crawl off to bed after a wonderful day down in the valley.